The programming card or Transmitter is a reprogrammable card. The Motor Speed Control Regulator has a PWM Frequency of 12KHZ. A wide range of applications, on-board switch with operation Stop brake function, and a separate line length of 30CM can be separated. A circuit design with a wide range of duty cycle adjustment, smooth motor without vibration, and power indication is stable for long working hours. Adopt imported high-voltage MOS tube, three high-voltage 100V high-frequency resistance capacitors, and fuses for braking. The parameters are hard to heat and easy to replace. The aluminum housing protects the internal circuits and components. The package contains a DC motor speed controller switch. The package contains a DC motor speed controller switch.
👤A lot of people say that the unit works great, but a lot of them say to pop it or burn it out. The input wire connection is not stamped correctly. It should be from the left to the right. Negative in, negative out.
👤Garbage, no regulating the voltage. It shows full voltage on the motor side when it is connected to a battery. The adjustment knob is useless. Amazon has to act together. This could hurt someone. All but one of the brands have been bad out of the box. The one that did work only worked for a short time and did well with the others. Prime membership will be canceled by Amazon because they have put themselves on my poop list. There are other places to get better products.
👤I don't know what I would expect from a power controller like this, but the components used are recycled. There are dents on the cases and old Silicone glue on the caps. One is puffed up. The heart of the circuit is a 555 timer which is a fair game if it works. Transient protection is provided by a SB10150CT. I'd stay below the max voltage of 40V for safety's sake, because the switch appears to be two or three D4184s.
👤The top of the board was caved in. It's made with cheap metal. The dial wouldn't control the speed and the leads for the dial weren't soldered right. This was the first time that a 5th graders attempt to solder. The leads broke off when I removed the dial. Trash!
👤My electrician friend helped me put it into an extension cord. I could have an in line power control. Plugged it in and it exploded! I think I'll spend more money and get a better product next time.
👤Positive and negative posts for battery power where reverse blowing factory 30 Amp fuse Clocking on dial zeroed on number 3 flopped around in the hole. It is not worth the time to pack and mail back. I bought a different unit. There is a The unit works if you don't mind fixing factory defects. How long?
👤When it works, it works great. Over the years, I have purchased 4 of these and only two have worked out of the box. One of the failed components would only output max voltage and the other wouldn't let it through. The two people that work have been there for a while.
👤The first time, I used the dewalt battery. It was burnt out under extreme circumstances. Before running, burn out twice. 3 times it lasted 5 minutes. You should have a multimeter to check output. I won't buy again.
👤The sender didn't bother to write my complete address, so I got a call from the post office asking what my address was. The product was rusty both outside and in the device, not to my surprise it broke and faulty, after opening the product I realized it was rusty both outside and in the device, not to my surprise it broke and faulty. Very disappointed. I waited a long time to get this item.
The electric nail file kit is guaranteed quality and service. If you have a question, please contact the sellers first, they will give you a solution immediately. The Potentiometer cable can be separated with a running stop brake function. It is suitable for long hours of work. The motor should be adjusted with no noise, no vibration, and with a wide duty cycle adjustment range. Three pressure 100V high-frequency low-resistance capacitors are used.
👤After converting our power wheels to run on Milwaukee batteries, we used the speed controller to slow them down. For anyone wondering, the runtime is amazing. We slowed the speed of the motor to allow our child to get comfortable driving, then turned it up a bit, because the speed controller allowed us to tune it back to an appropriate level. There were no issues with heat build up or the adjustment slipping. The speed controller and motor were cool to the touch. The adjustment nob doesn't move when the power wheels bounce through the grass. Great product!
👤I don't know why I installed it. The devil who rides the power wheel watched me adjust it while installing and figured out that if he turns it to the right it unleashed the full 18v power. It is a great piece of equipment. The wiring was easy and there were no issues. I had to use twist lock screws on the access panel to keep the kids fingers off it.
👤The RioRand motor speed controller was perfect for my motor. I was able to remove the ribs from the white upper half and attach the controller with a screw and nut to the upper inside half. The control switch was run through the handle and attached to the motor by drilling a hole in the end of the handle. The handle is flush on the outside, even though I cut off the inside. The controller was easy to wire inside the head because of the wires that run to the battery. Attach these to the unit. The shaft was cut 10 inches to use inside and Hobie drive.
👤I didn't want to get ripped off on dimmer switches and fancy power supplies when I bought an LED strip, it didn't come with a power supply or a dimmer. I bought a 12 V power supply and a PWM controller to power and control my LEDs. The controller seems to be very efficient and has minimal heat for my application. The controller has a switch on the side that you can use to turn it off completely, so it works for me. The controller should be able to control the speed of the DC motor.
👤Having full control of my kayak motor. love it
👤This unit was used to control the spray motor. I needed to spray around trees and schrubs. To spray a larger area, could speed up. It worked very well.
👤You get burned ordering electronics from China. This little joke works perfectly on my mini air compressor. It's rated a little higher than needed, so I should hope so, but you never know. Been working well for a long time.
👤I did not load it, but did test the two I bought. It worked out fine. I see many comments about voltage adjustment, which is not the case. The device will handle the input voltage between 7 and 70v. The output voltage level is not adjusted, but rather the input voltage is switched on and off at different duty cycles. Think about a light switch that you switch on and off. The time on to off will affect the time power is applied to the light. The benefit is that the power to the motor is lowered when the PWMs are used.
The package has a motor speed controller. This listing is for a motor rhyostat. Three settings include off, full and variable. The dial can be used to increase or decrease fan motor speed. 120v/15v. Only with brush type motor only. The power cord has a maximum power rating of 60hz. Will not work with soft/slow start motor. The Router was sold separately. Will not work with soft/slow start motor. The Router was sold separately.
👤I don't know if this item is faulty or not. It runs very well from low to high. The controller doesn't work when I turn high to medium or low. It is still in high gear. It can't control backwards. It's weird... I try again. If I set it low mode, it runs very well, and I tune it to med mode. I put the controller in high mode when it increases the speed. It increases the speed. It works well. When I turn the knob back to medium, it's in a different mode. I turned the knob to low to keep the same speed in high mode. Is it bad? Something is wrong with the item, I can controll forward not backward. I found out why my controller is not working. There is a missing piece of information in the user guide that makes the controller work. You can adjust the variable resister with a screwdriver when you open the back. If the routers runs at low on the dial, turn the dial to "low" and then switch to the VAR position. When it is variabe mode, it will be the rotary dial. To make the controller work, be careful when adjusting with a live circuit, or you can test it by plugging it in.
👤I use a two-handed tool that looks like a Dremel and I use carbide bits almost every day. The tools have an ON/OFF switch. The speed is likely over 10,000rpm. I should have bought one a long time ago. I can dial down therpms and avoid chatter. A pot screw for range adjustment is inside. I set mine before I use it. I ordered a second for backup because it is a cheap item. Just get it.
👤This was ordered to control my flex shaft. Needed to decrease the speed from 15000 to 5000. The controller made no difference at the lowest speed setting. The motor is still running. Completely useless to me. Very disappointing. Will be back.
👤The minimum output can be turned down by the internal potentiometer, which can be found in the lights and heating plates. You can't do this for a fan motor. The minimum setting for a motor is 60.
👤I would have sent it back if I had known that the review was needed to set the parameters without it, but I'm glad I did.
👤I like my controller and it performs well. The unit came with a 3 foot cord, not the 6 foot advertised. Some units come with three foot cords and six foot cords, not a problem. The controller works as advertised. I'm not going to Rate that because there is no noise level. Money value was a good thing for my budget. The product was good.
👤The device doesn't give a full range of speed control. If the dial is turned up to about 65%, it will start to control speed. I've tried it on a variety of motor types. I'm not happy with it's performance. I guess you get what you pay for.
Customer service is prioritized by their team. Call, email, or chat with their US-based support team for any questions or concerns about your electric bike. A high-powered motor is quieter, smaller and lighter than brushed ones. The 1800 W-Output makes it more efficient to produce power. The aluminum shell is good quality and sturdy. DC 48 V is the voltage. The high working efficiency can be ensured by the 48-volt motor's ultra-fast rotation speed. You can change the rotation by reversing the motor's wires. The 1800 W DC motor has a speed controller that will give you convenient speed control. The included tools are for fixing the motor and making a safe operation. The 48 V DC motor is compatible with electric scooter, e-bike, electric bicycle, e-scooter, e-motor, motorcycle, small electric motor, etc. The 48 V DC motor is compatible with electric scooter, e-bike, electric bicycle, e-scooter, e-motor, motorcycle, small electric motor, etc.
👤The lack of documentation is the most frustrating part. You have to reverse engineer by taking the controller apart and following the wires. It's a bit luck to figure it out. It's an impressive DC motor/Controller if you wire it correctly. The motor has a lot of power. It has been great for the first couple days using it on a go kart. I've been working on it. The above picture of a similar product was the one I ran across after figuring out the wiring. It appears to be the correct wiring diagram, but you should use it at your own risk. Hope this will help another buyer. Good luck!
👤This is a great motor for a go-kart project. It's got plenty of power for a go kart, because it's only 10 minutes to warm the motor. It has good low end Torque for a fast take-off, and even with an extra hundred pounds, the motor barely noticed a difference and still had the same power. The setup is a 6:1 gear ratio with 60 teeth on the wheel sprocket and 10 on the motor sprocket. It was easy to make connections, and the "electric lock" is what you should use to wire up an on/off switch. It works well, but be aware that it doesn't go full speed just in reverse. If you need to switch the direction of the motor without using reverse, here are the instructions I found that worked for you.
👤I found a pocket bike in a dumpster a year ago. I replaced the dead stock batteries with a 2001 Macbook battery pack and found it to be fine. The chain was fine after a bit of chain oil and a bit of WD-40. There were some issues with the brakes, but everything was fine. After a few rides one of the cells shorted out and I put the project on hold until I could get some funds to really go all out. I've been buying used packs from the local e-recycler. He sold me 17 9 cell HP packs in a box. I have to rip them apart, charge em, test individual cell capacities, and mate it to a controller for the BMS. Enough of the background, this will give me a 13s 11p pack. I had been looking for a full on replacement for a long time and found the one I was looking for. I waited for the summer to start so I could pay my tuition. I ordered the set and everything else after my day came. The motor is built well. The Razor and the Mophorn have different toothed sprockets, but the Razor one fits on the Mophorn motor without any issues. It took some force to spin this thing. The bolt hole patterns for mounting the motor are the same as those for the stock motor. It accepts the same screws. The bad, not bad. I wasn't able to get the motor mounted for 2 reasons. The welded on motor mount on the bottom hits the MX500 frame in a way that it won't allow the holes to align. The wires coming out of the motor exit where the frame is, preventing mounting in that direction. It would be great if this mounting bracket was either removed or not. The screw types are used to hold the motor together. Even if the welded motor mount wasn't there, the round head screws would still prevent you from mounting the motor on the MX500. The MX500's original brushed motor has a flat head screw, which would have been a better choice. Too soon to say. I can't work around these issues. I can find replacement screws for the motor mount. I can give this a final review once the issues have been worked out and the battery pack is built. It might be helpful for anyone looking to do the same mod, I'm trying to find out what to look for. I am.
The brushed motor is more noisy and less efficient than the brushless motor. It's suitable for go karts, scooters, e-bike, ATV, motorized bicycle, moped, mini bikes, pocket bikes, etc. The motor has a speed of 50 km/h and is non-gear. If one of the halls is damaged, you can replace it with another one. Just use one. BLDC controller 50A is a brushless motor controller. The dual mode controller can work without the hall motor. The display of the Throttle with ignition lock and digital display can be seen in real time. Installation diameter is 22mm. The package includes: rear motor wheel, controller, electronic brake lever, and switch.
👤I have been building e bikes from these kits for many years. The course has two sensor bundles for fault tolerance, that's part of the quality. Manufacturing quality is horrible, which is pretty standard, but I would say slightly above engineering/build quality. This isn't a bolt on, they skimped on some parts that normally come with a kit like this. You're going to have to buy some tape for the inside of the wheel, as well as a gear cassette, because the tire doesn't bulge through the holes and pop. It's a screw-on gear cassette setup, so I was unable to transfer anything. There are mounts for a disc brake, but no disc is included.
👤The seller has no idea what he is selling. Information in the listing doesn't match the photos. The seller is different from the listing photos. Don't buy this no matter what!
👤Have it all hooked up. Does the hard boot need to be plugged in? I can't get the tire to spin. I have it all working after many hours of research. It is fast and rapid, like a dirt bike.
The advantage of using a pulse width modulation (PWM) method is that the power supply can be fully utilized and the circuit is highly efficient. It is suitable for electric bicycles, scooter, etc. Premium material. The controller is made of aluminum alloy. The item is a motor controller that can provide steady speed and sensitive control of the brakes. The wires and interface are reliable and low in malfunction. The interface have instructions on them for easy installation.
👤I bought these to use them on a go kart. I know what I'm doing because I'm familiar with electronics and mechanics. One of the units works, the other is dead. The dead was tested, it has correct supply VCC voltage of 36VDC when connected to supply battery, on input and output, as well as on the output, but the regulated output is low tested with multi-meter. The unit doesn't do anything when connected to a hall sensor type of throttle control because one of the low voltage regulators inside the controller is bad. The other controller has double and triple checked connections and works just fine. It's frustrating that you have only one work after ordering 2 units. I don't know how these controllers are tested, but if this is one bad in 100 units, it's not so bad. I need to find out how to get a replacement for the bad unit or get credit from Amazon. I decided it was too difficult to return the faulty unit. I opened the unit and tested it for proper voltages, shorts, mosfets, and generally all components that seemed questionable, since I am capable of fixing it. The unit showed an extra wire poking out of a missing power resistors, I left it intact since it was not creating either short or open, just an extra wire someone at the assembly line forgot to cut. The power mosfet areas on the high and low sides were all checked good, and the input and output side of the controller were unaffected. This usually has to do with IC chips. Poor solder joints and loose wiring were found. I assumed the transistor was a voltage regulator chip, but it looked like it broke while being handled, perhaps because the assembly line was cut too short prior to soldering. The low voltage at the output of the 5V DC supply was fixed by re-soldering it. If the throttle hall sensor is not working, or if the voltage is not high enough, the motor won't work. This was the problem, it took a bit of time to disassemble the unit and check out the issues explained. I know that if you open a product, you void the warranty, but I know what I'm doing, and these units are fairly inexpensive to begin with. I would have returned it if it was a $100 controller. If I could not fix the one I bought, I would have to buy two more, but I hope the other two don't have any problems with using them on the electric go-kart I put from scratch. The controllers are not bad because they do not have a labeled in English version of the motors' phase and hall sensor wires, and they do not have a labeled in English version of the throttle. They come with laser etched specification on the aluminum cases, unlike other similar ones which come with a paper label. After opening one unit and seeing how it is constructed, they appear well done, the mosfets have proper heat sinking, but maybe I was unlucky with one that looked like it had a bit of less attention by who ever was assembling the components in the pc board. The units have been put to use. I have a weight of 200 lbs and the hover board motor with these controllers can pull my weight and also 50 lbs in the go-karts structure, it works very nice. The power of the two motor controllers was frightening at times, as they can move you fast. I use 120mm scooter wheels as my from end wheels and they have a nice ball bearing which allow the wheels to move easily even when applying electronic braking through the controller built in brake connections. The complete wiring and designation of each wire was done after that. The controller has a number of nice functions such as high and low speed, CRUISE CONTROL, and LEARN MODE. I have seen a bullet type plug female labeled "panel" and a lead labeled "speedometer." I want to know if anyone is using this and how. I wish the controller had 12VDC wire to power led strips. I connected my go-kart led lights to the balance connector on my batteries by taping into them. I am happy so far. The project can be seen in this video. Check it out. It is a complete build using a gutted out hover board. Not to be confused with projects that use hoverboads and go-kart frames that fit over them.
Variable, Off, and Full are the settings. It's easy to adjust the speed of your inline fans and duct fans. Don't use it on motor type. There is a safe operation. The plug is grounded for safe operation. Frequency: 120V/60HZ Max. The Amperage is 15A. 6ft grounded power cord with US standard plug is required. 6ft grounded power cord with US standard plug is required.
👤I ordered one of these. There is a FAN CONTROLLER listed. I used a stage light to test it. The light was on at 250 watt even though there was no problems. I unplugged the unit and took the back off. There is a hole on the circuit board that can be used to set the min current draw. The light was set so that it wouldn't light up if it was bright. You can set it to zero. When the cover is off, the full VOLTAGE is inside the unit. There is a 3 position on the front. Nice touch. I'm not sure if this unit can handle that amount of current without an extra heat sink added to the metal plate on the back.
👤Anyone who owns an AirKing fan knows how much air it pushes out. That is desirable for certain situations, but when used in a living room setting to provide a lower degree of air flow, the LOW setting on an AirKing is comparable to the Medium to High setting on your typical WalMart special. This affordable motor speed control comes in handy. It allowed us to lower the AirKing's speed to a more manageable level. The noise level from the fan dropped a lot because the blade speed/air flow volume was lowered. The controller cost us $18.00 after sales tax and delivery on Amazon.com. Sometimes a product far exceeds your expectations, both in terms of cost and build quality. We are considering buying more of these units to handle the same duties on the other Air King fans we run in the summer months.
👤I'm a little disappointed. It went from 50% to 100% on the variable. I found a single adjustment inside that sets the minimum speed. I set the switch to variable and the knob to minimum so I could adjust to what I wanted with my drill motor and leaf blower. It's a very important adjustment. I'm very happy that it does zero to 100%. I don't know if it was an exception or if they are all set that way. Unless you are qualified to work on power control equipment, I recommend you not open it. Everything inside is at 120 vac potential. I used to repair power control equipment for a living.
👤I bought a 2.5HP plunge router that has a fixed speed of 27,000rpm and some slot cutters that say a max speed of 17,000rpm. Even though this unit is sold as a "fan" speed controller, it has a sticker on the side indicating it is actually intended for use as a routers speed controller, which is good. The brushed AC motor should work. Some people didn't read the part about it only working with brushed motors, from some of the negative reviews. The only negative is that it did not reduce the speed of my computer. I read a review that said there was a hidden adjustment potentiometer inside. Wall dimmer switches have these as well. I was able to adjust it, but I need my tach to get it where I need it to be. I can tell by the sound of the motor that it will go down. They should tell you about this adjustment in the instructions. A lot of negative reviews would be prevented. The hidden adjustment is soldered onto the top side of the PCB inside, but you need to use a small flathead screwdriver to adjust it from the back after removing the back cover. Adjusting it with it plugged in is a bit difficult. The reason this won't work with brushed AC motors is because they are essentially DC motors with rectifiers. The brushes are used for timing so the motor is pushing or pulling at the correct time. A simple triac dimmer like this works because brushed motors don't rely on input frequencies to control speed, just average voltages. It's hard on the power grid, but effective. External Frequency timing is what keeps the brushless induction motors synchronized. They are designed to run at a fixed rate. They get out of sync if you try to slow them down without reducing the power source's frequencies. You need a variable frequency drive to control the speed of the motor.
The SW900 display supports battery capacity indicator, brake status, speed display, trip distance display, motor power, parameters and temperature display. The lack of brushes makes a high-power brushless motor more quiet and long-lived. 2000W, DC 48 V, is considered to be a Considerable power. The Ultrafast Rotation Speed is intended to fill the need for a small motor with high performance. The bicycle's DC motor is a forward and backward rotation motor, and you can switch the rotation in either the clockwise or counterclockwise direction by reversing the motor's wires. The 48 Volt DC motor has a speed controller that can be used to adjust the speed in the Ranger. The included tools are for fixing the motor and making a safe operation. The 48 V DC motor is made of aluminum and is perfect for electric scooter, e-bike, electric bicycle, e-scooter, e-motor, motorcycle, small electric Motor, etc. The 48 V DC motor is made of aluminum and is perfect for electric scooter, e-bike, electric bicycle, e-scooter, e-motor, motorcycle, small electric Motor, etc.
👤I modified a push mower into a rider. I think I'm sitting around 350 lbs on it. The top speed was 13 mph. The air flow holes on my unit weren't drilled very thoroughly. It seems to hold up well.
👤I used this motor for my mini bike. It works well. I have recorded a top speed of 28mph. I used it every day during the summer. Climbs hills well. I will get it again for my next build.
👤After hooking it up to a battery, the throttle battery indicator comes on, but after plugging all the components together, the motor doesn't turn at all. It won't turn if I can get some help from other people. I tried with a 36v battery but it wouldn't let the controller turn on, you need a 48v battery for it to function. I haven't got a chain yet but I will keep looking because this is a terrible choice of sprocket and it's hard to find something compatible.
👤It was used to increase power and speed.
👤I don't have much to say because I haven't got it running. The motor is powerful. One of the two sprockets that are supposed to fit into the chain is not the right size for my needs. I need a Jackshaft Sprocket. I was able to find one that fits the chain and motor for $17 more. It is sold on Amazon under the heading "Go kart mini bike with key stock jackshaft Sprocket".
👤It didn't work. Nothing. A friend of mine is an electrical engineer. Nothing worked. Very frustrating. I have nothing more than an expensive aluminum paper weight.
👤Very powerful. My bike is going 34mph. Customer service is great. I had a minor set back and they handled it well. A+.
👤It's great to use it on a motorcycle.
6ft grounded power cord with US standard plug is required. Please refer to the recommended power range for actual use current. 12V within 250W, 24V within 350W, 48V within 450W, and 60V within 500W are recommended. The speed control knob. The knob can be used to control the motor speed from zero to 100%. The cable length is 15CM. 30A Fuse The set contains a 30A fuse. The Motor and Motor Speed Controller are protected. Note 1 The power of the input power supply must be greater than 1.5 times the rated power of the motor to make the motor work. If the children's car has a forward-reverse circuit regulator, please connect the speed controller to the power supply. The speed controller may be damaged if not repaired. If the children's car has a forward-reverse circuit regulator, please connect the speed controller to the power supply. The speed controller may be damaged if not repaired.
👤I used this to change the battery in my power wheels upgrade. The device stopped working a few weeks after I installed it. The motor is stuck on 100%, even though it still lights up, and passes full voltage through. The internal fuse stopped working after I checked it.
👤Work was stopped after 2 uses. The battery was used. It stopped working after a few minutes.
👤I use a controller for 20v drill packs on my kids' powerwheels. I'm going to install a fan. There were no issues. There aren't a lot of mounting options.
👤The instructions were easy to understand. Installation of this along with the Milwaukee battery adapter was easy. I only have two complaints. It gets hot when your kids realize how powerful this thing is. The adjustment knob is sensitive. I thought the battery had died multiple times, but it turned out it had just turned itself off. It's usually done in close proximity to electrical taping to stop it from happening. The knob needs to be a bit more stable.
👤The range of adjustment of the voltage was low when the battery connected without the motor. I ordered a different one and found it to be doing the same thing, but the new one came with instructions explaining that this is normal. I installed it, and it works as I wanted it to. It was what I wanted from zero motor movement to very fast. I am amending my review and cancelling my return so that I have a spare.
👤The internal fuse can be replaced. I can't say if it performs to the specifications. The power wheel does not blow because of the in-line 25A fuse. If you last for a few minutes, you'll see that this fuse blows if it runs much more than half power. Over 2 months, this didn't last more than a few light uses. I bought this to convert my son's power wheel to a 20v battery. This conversion would not do much to test the limits of a speed controller.
👤Product works great, just make sure you don't overload it or push it to its max for a long time. It's a good idea to add your own fuse that's close to the limit you'll be using. The seller has impressed me with both their product and their customer service. I'm sure they will do everything to make it right if you have any issues.
👤I used this to control my spreader. I wanted it to be cool and not so hard that it would Dent cars. I have a salter with built-in speed control that is $700 more expensive than the one I have, but I think this is a good deal for the money. Maybe 7 or 8 stars.
👤It worked well at first and I was happy with it. I was using a hobby motor to tinker with it. I used the brake feature on the switch and it took a turn for the worse, it still let power through, but it had no control, the same result as hooking the wires up directly with no motor controller at all. The dial stopped working when the on/off/break setting was not used. It works great if you don't need the brake feature and aren't curious to stop yourself from trying it. Other wise is not worth it. It depends on what you need, but a simple thing that causes it to break might show how it will perform in the long run.
It's for ATV Honda, Yamaha, Bombardier, Kawasaki, Polaris, Kazuma, Suzuki. The electric scooter motor has a power of 2000 watt, a rate of 42a, and a max speed of 5600rpm. The controller has 48 watt, 2000 watt, 45 Amp, 24 Mosfet, 120 Phase Degree, Hard Boot, Head Light, Charge Port and E-lock. The Throttle Twist with high quality rubber grip and 48V battery is a LCD Handlebar. The Electric Scooter, Motorcycle, Ebike Bicycle, Go Karts, E-bike, Mini Motorcycle, and other applications have Electric Brushless DC Motor. The motor is 48V 2000W. The controller has a 3-speed switch. The motor is 48V 2000W. The controller has a 3-speed switch.
👤I bought this kit for my son's dirt bike. I have learned a lot from this purchase. It was going to be difficult to fit my application because the controller is huge and monsterous. The controller doesn't work for a dirt bike. The controller is not programmed. There are four The motor is unbalanced and doesn't go to maxrpm. This kit would get a better rating from me if there was an ability to program the controller and adjust parameters. The controller is not a great value. Now the motor. The motor wouldn't run right. I tried a better Kelly controller and it wouldn't shut off and wouldn't run again. The bench was vibrating. I took it apart. It was not balanced. The ones I got were garbage, but all of them were made to a price point. It will be cheaper and better to buy a Kelly or other controller and a motor separately.
👤I built a go kart, but had to make the handle bars fit where the steering wheel used to be. It is fast as a mo fo. The kart is a good 120 and I need to work on stabilizing the wheels and axel because I want expecting it to go. I am happy with my purchase, I will buy a lot more soon, and I will post videos if I can figure out how to thank you.
👤I spent $200 of my hard earned money and it should last more than a few hours. Don't damage other components. I bought it a week ago in the original package. It was great for the first day. On the second day I was on my scooter and was working perfectly when I heard a noise and felt a lock up of the rear wheel. When my battery pack started, I had to break my scooter apart on the road to get to the wires and rip them out, because smoke appeared from the motor and controller. The $350 dollar battery was Fried. I give up. Everything was destroyed. I know this will not be fixed, so I am going to lose $500. It is my fault. They will say it's easier to admit faulty units escape the factories. It is sad. I thought it was working great, but I wish it hadn't happened. Everyone wanted to know where I got it.
👤Have yet to use it. The instructions have a junction box. The junction box is also in instructional video. I had to order from another place because nothing was included. The motor rotation needs to be reversed for those of us whole. You can connect blue to yellow and yellow to blue. These are thin wires. The picture included was from the motor big azz cables yellow to yellow, blue to green. If you don't have a good connection, you will have resistance. I put a wire nut on them at the end to remove the issue. I was worried that the wires from the motor were larger than they were. This thing is absolutely ripin', I hooked it up on a monster motoE 1000 with a 48v 20Ah LifeP06 battery. I top out at 28 MPH on the grass. I rode this next to a Juiced Bike with a MPH gauge against my son and we were neck and neck. The battery is running strong, so far so good. Enjoy!
The 48 V DC motor is compatible with electric scooter, e-bike, electric bicycle, e-scooter, e-motor, motorcycle, small electric motor, etc. The Kunray MY1020 Brushless Motor has an Electric Brushless DC Motor, a Full Copper coil, and a high quality more long life. The motor type is a brushless DC high speed motor. 48V 2000W 15 Mosfet 33A Brushless Motor Speed Controller has a Hall Sensor, E-Brake, 3 speed, reverse, and power lock functions. The function of the LCD Handlear Twist is 48V battery powered, with a screen that has aThrottle Twist, and a 3 in 1 Handlebar. The application includes: electric scooter, motorcycle, ebike bicycle, go karts, e-bike, motorcycle, E Tricycle,mid drive motor kit, complete set, and more. What you get is a motor, controler, and manual.
👤I received the motor/controller and am in the process of installing it, but it will take me a while to review it because it is in my own design. I thought I would do a review on what I know. The motor and controller were wrapped in foam and shipped. The product description states that there are nicks and scratches on the motor. These are not going to affect the performance. A simple buffing can resolve the problem. I would have liked to have seen mating connectors for everything. I will have to cut the ends of the cables and make a note of the cables for my project because these are not STD. It's possible to prevent that by having mating connections. Once my project is done, I will probably help supply a schematic that people will use. The indicator light and brake light both show 48V output. I'm curious to see if I can find lights that are 12V or if I can step that down. If the SM 48V/60V wire is connected, it's not clear if that changes to 60V. There is a reversing signal pigtail. I assume a simple NO connection will do the trick. The motor/controller was as expected, but I will change this post as I find out more. 2 photos and a video were added. I am building an electric mower. Some will say it is not powered up. I will show that most electric conversions have been over powered. You don't really need that much. The original mower had a Twin Cylinder engine that I got after a son drained the oil, but there was no replacement oil. Dad came home and the engine was on fire. The Chassis is in great shape. A test spin with no load is shown in the video. It was running at a slow pace. The chain was loose. I didn't run it fast. I am working on a chain tension system. This was only a test. The third picture shows where I made a mistake by only using the bottom mounts, when I put the wheels on the ground, the motor and mount bent. It's fixable. There are some points on my setup. I am running my mower on batteries that are connected in a series. I will build a more appropriate battery stack once I get the motor mounted and wired. 2. It's a reversal. The flip switch needs to be wired into the connector. When flipped, you can reverse it. It is very simple. That is all for now. The next step is to look into the brakes and lights. Since there are no opposing connections, I have to change all of the connections. Someone asked if the graph was working. It does. If you don't provide over 42V, it will only display the battery symbol and bottom bar of power. The battery is dead. If anyone is interested, I will provide a complete set of plans on how to use this motor for a conversion.
Electric motor controller products from Leimo Kparts. In this article about electric motor controller you can see why people choose the product. Riorand and Labwork are also good brands to look for when you are finding electric motor controller.
Leimo Kparts, Riorand and Labwork are some of the best brands that chosen by people for electric motor controller. Find the detail in this article. Mophorn, Ebuysmart and Opaltool are also brands that their products are worth to check.